Hello, got a few questions about a little project I'm working on. I'm basically making a small pair of full range, open baffle speakers. Their not intended to be a serious pair of speakers, just a bit of fun and to practice my woodworking. However I'd still like them to sound reasonable if possible. So I've been looking at drivers (been looking at some peerless 3' models) but am unsure what would be a good choice. I'm after something small, they're only going to be small speakers and I can always use a sub with them if need be. Buku keperawatan jiwa pdf. So I'm looking for a reasonably cheap full range driver, around 3' would be ideal, which you could use with an open baffle setup. They were an open baffle design with closed cabinets for subwoofers. Those 3-way speakers were fine (Visaton BG 20 full range speaker design is superior tough) but you are mistaken if you think that you can build acceptable 3-way speakers without excessive testing. ![]() Hope that all made sense, any help greatly appreciated. There are a ton of 3'. I've been working with the fountek fr88ex lately. Not open baffle though. Sounds reasonable for a 3' full ranger. Depending on your budget, I've heard to CSS EL70 in a bass reflex and it was great. Lots of bass which may come in handy being an OB. 4' though and about $100 a pair. Tang band has lots of selection. I have a pair of 3' prototype tang bands. Serial numbers 1 and 2. So I can't tell you the model. But the were not quite as good as the fountek. Had a slightly rising measured response compared to the fountek. That's typical of tang band I believe. Very cheap though. They can run as low as $20 a pair. I'd sell my protos for that much. If you have $100 to spend, the el70 or chr70 would be best as they have a beefy bottom to counter baffle step and OB. Hello, got a few questions about a little project I'm working on. I'm basically making a small pair of full range, open baffle speakers. Their not intended to be a serious pair of speakers, just a bit of fun and to practice my woodworking. However I'd still like them to sound reasonable if possible. That's not physically possible. Good sounding open baffle speakers take at least a couple drivers and baffle widths, equalization, and ample displacement (which you don't get from full-range drivers, especially small ones. 22cm and 5mm Xmax is a good start to reach a conventional sub-woofer). I say that having heard a variety of open baffle setups (and built Linkwitz Orions) including a $40,000 pair of Feastrex field-coil drivers with and without woofers on Nelson Pass's big baffles (Nelson is a super cool guy and analog whiz but that's not enough to crutch a flawed concept into acceptable sound). ![]() Your problem is that dipoles roll off at 6dB/octave with output matching a monopole at.17 * v / D with v the speed of sound (1130 feet/second) and D the path length difference between both sides of the driver to listener which is baffle width on a flat baffle. At.5 v/ D the reverse polarity rear wave (from the acoustically small drivers) is delayed a full 180 degrees producing a 6dB peak and beyond that you end up with a multi-lobed polar mess approaching the null at.75 v / D and beyond until driver directivity precludes an acoustic dipole response. Baffle widths need to be small to avoid the polar response problem and you need multiple widths with multiple drivers and/or equalization to get the bass. Quote: So I've been looking at drivers (been looking at some peerless 3' models) but am unsure what would be a good choice. I'm after something small, they're only going to be small speakers and I can always use a sub with them if need be. So I'm looking for a reasonably cheap full range driver, around 3' would be ideal, which you could use with an open baffle setup. That's not possible. If you want to play with full-range drivers, the small Fostex drivers work great in tall thin back-loaded horn enclosures. Output levels are severely limited from the low displacement but they sound natural and have some bass. If you want open baffles accept that it will take equalization and 2-3 drivers until you can use a sub-woofer for the bass. Originally Posted by TRecord Thanks for the advice, I didn't realize there would be such a large trade off in terms of sound quality with a small open baffle setup. The more I look at the design the more problems I encounter. So I'm now re-thinking my design and am considering a slim, tall, ported cabinet design instead. Possibly with a larger driver, something around 4' to give a little more bass response. Definitely a good idea to re-think that.
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